Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
